Fay Maschler's week in food: from squid to roast grouse

The Evening Standard's restaurant critic details the culinary highlights of her week
Happy pair: Fay and Reg's chosen crabs for a homemade supper
Fay Maschler30 August 2017

“A small but fiercely independent fish in a big pond” is how Minnow in Clapham describes itself. Charm in abundance but the squid, lemongrass, lime and ginger starter is stickleback size.

We’ve “welcomed” Five Guys and Shake Shack, now P F Chang’s, a US chain specialising in Asian food, comes to town. Sugar and a sort of salad cream are on board for “never duplicated” (thankfully) Original Dynamite Shrimp.

Rotolo can resemble an incongruously untidy Swiss roll but taste real neat. At Palatino in Finsbury the pasta sheet spun around spinach and ricotta is topped with wild mushrooms and Parmesan. Edifying.

Reg and I choose a crab each. Cracked, picked and served with homemade mayo, an ideal Saturday supper.

I make damson jelly to accompany roast grouse. Toasted sweetcorn is from a recipe by the incomparable Diana Henry.

Fay Maschler's 50 favourite restaurants in London

1/50