RESTAURANT REVIEW + PHOTOS: Menu at Little Rock's Movie Tavern includes shrimp

Movie Tavern, which serves food and drink to patrons at their seats, as well as in the restaurant/bar, recently opened in the Gateway Town Center in Little Rock.
Movie Tavern, which serves food and drink to patrons at their seats, as well as in the restaurant/bar, recently opened in the Gateway Town Center in Little Rock.

They don't just serve popcorn at Movie Tavern.

They serve Popcorn Shrimp, too.

The Dallas-based cinema-eatery recently opened a location behind Bass Pro Shops in Little Rock's Gateway Town Center, off Interstate 30. The theater contains a full-service restaurant and bar that patrons can use before, after or even instead of a movie, and the theater serves patrons everything from snacks to full meals during movies.

There's no traditional box office. Order your ticket in advance online ($7.58 for adult matinee and children and senior citizens anytime; $11.72 for adult evening, plus $1.50 booking fee and about $3 more for 3-D) or buy them at the theater at self-serve kiosks or at the full-service counter with human assistance.

And there's no concession stand (and therefore no awful lines). That's because you order everything from the Classic Bucket of Popcorn ($7.95), listed as a starter on the menu, to Theater Candy ($4.95), listed as a dessert, at your seat and it is brought to you by servers -- and yes, do plan to tip.

We'll divide our visits into scenes.

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Photos by Jennifer Christman

SCENE ONE: SEAT SERVICE

We joined three friends -- one of them underage, oops -- for a late Saturday afternoon showing of the R-rated comedy Game Night, starring Justin Bateman and Rachel McAdams. The organized friend of the group pre-purchased tickets, so all we had to do is walk in and take our seats in the new, adjustable recliner chairs that have collapsible tray tables and drink holders.

While seats are comfortable, they're positioned close together, which is fine when seated with friends. But one could feel odd sitting next to a stranger while slurping on Tomato Basil Soup ($5.95).

Soon after being seated and prior to the movie, a friendly server explained the drill. We could order now or press a button to order at anytime. We, who'd prefer not talking during a movie, decided to go ahead and order, allowing her to swipe our card and start a tab.

While the menu devotes most of its space to specialty cocktails, Moscow mules, martinis, Grown Up Shakes, margaritas, wine and beer, I just wanted a Diet Coke. An -- ouch -- $4.75 Diet Coke. It wouldn't be the only time we'd wince at a price. Though moviegoers can order anything they could want here, they still might be tempted to sneak in contraband due to the cost.

As a starter, my date and I ordered a rather pricey pound of wings ($15.95; half-pound, $11.25) with Buffalo sauce (BBQ, Lemon Pepper and Chipotle Glaze are other options), served with ranch for dipping. They, like the rest of our dishes, were delivered to us rather quickly in an unobtrusive manner.

While we were provided napkins, we quickly realized the saucy, standard wings were a sloppy choice for movie food.

Our entrees came when we were still finishing the wings; luckily there was free seat next to us, and we could use that tray table to juggle our dishes.

I ordered the South of the Border Burger ($13.50), topped with pulled pork, green chilies and pepper Jack cheese that made it flavorful but not too fiery. Were I not avoiding bread, I would have chosen to eat the messy, meaty meal with a fork and knife anyway. The accompanying fries were amply seasoned and served with a plastic cup of ketchup.

My date ordered what must be the messiest of all movie meals: Creole Chicken and Andouille Sausage Pasta ($14.75) with an upsell addition of shrimp ($3). The zippy dish of Creole-sauced corkscrew pasta, topped with parmesan, had a good amount of blackened chicken and sausage, and the plump shrimp were surprisingly good. Even if it was an odd sensation, slicing off shrimp tails in a cinema.

Eating silently in the dark while staring at a screen, I recognized how much sight and socializing adds to a meal. I couldn't see or discuss what I was eating, and the whole experience felt somewhat curious and antisocial.

Movie Tavern's food service, though efficient and as inconspicuous as possible, is still a distraction.

But it's not as if the plot of Game Night demanded one's full attention.

SCENE TWO:RESTAURANT SERVICE

For our second visit, just to review the restaurant, we arrived about 6:30 p.m. on a Saturday. Big mistake. The restaurant, which is divided into three parts -- the Dining Room, the bar area and the Living Room -- was packed with people dining and drinking before their 7-o'clock movie showings. Word to the wise: If you're going just for a bite or beverage, time it for when people are already in their movies.

Seat yourself in this restaurant/bar/lounge area, wherever you can, on bar stools, in wing-back chairs or at the large, plush half-banquette that dominates a dining room wall. Take in the decor (which includes overhead antler lights and a fireplace), a basketball game on a flat-screen or a game of shuffleboard or Jenga. One really could have one's own Game Night right here.

When a group at a large pushed-together table left, we claimed one of their four tops. But no one came to bus the tables or move them back where they should be. One server walked by us three times with no acknowledgment. Good thing we weren't rushing to make a movie.

It took about 15 minutes sitting at a dirty table before a barback asked if we had been taken care of, and he filled in until a server could take over. Once we finally had a server, he was friendly and helpful. Maybe too friendly. He sat down and talked at us for about five minutes while we were still eating our entrees. One minute we couldn't find someone to help us, and the next we couldn't get someone to leave.

On to the food and drink.

This time I'd order a glass of pinot noir ($9.50) and felt sulky about the tiny stemless glass with the tiny pour. The characters of Sideways would agree with me.

We started this meal with Nachos Deluxe ($10.25), an exaggerated name for a vegetarian platter of chips, refried beans, queso, lettuce, green onions and a teeny plastic cup of pico de gallo. They're not even close to deluxe until meat is added for an extra amount, and even then we wanted sour cream and guacamole. We do recommend the seasoned chicken ($1; $2 for steak), but don't expect much of it.

The Cuban Dip Sandwich ($13.95) wasn't maybe as epic as those Cubanos in Chef. Though the sandwich of shredded pork, ham, Swiss and pickles served on a toasted baguette wasn't all that large, it still packed salty satisfaction. It was served with fries, as well as a giant bowl of mojo sauce, which looked like thick barbecue sauce but tasted similar to Asian hoisin sauce.

We also ordered the Steak and Shrimp ($16.95) at the movie theater, because ... Steak and Shrimp at a movie theater. The plating was nothing special, and the "hand carved sirloin" was three cuts of steak with a charred outside and overcooked inside (the medium-rare requested was more medium). It was served with fine shrimp, a mound of mashed potatoes that looked instant but tasted better, as well as decent green beans.

Though we didn't get around to trying them, Movie Tavern also serves salads ($10.25-$13.95) and pizza ($10.25-$13.25), which we wanted to call Mystic Pizza.

For dessert, we decided to save options such as the Housemade Churro and Brownie Bottom Sundae (both $6.95) for another visit (no, there was no American Pie). My date ordered a chocolate shake -- just a regular, creamy one ($5.95), not an adult, outrageous one, like the Have Your Cake & Drink It Too ($9.50 for 16-ounce regular, $12.50 for 24-ounce jumbo) of Three Olives Cake Vodka, whipped cream and sprinkles in a chocolate-rimmed glass.

THE END

Though I don't anticipate doing much in-theater dining, I love the idea of enjoying an adult drink and maybe dessert -- perhaps some Chocolat -- during a film. And while the food exceeds cinema expectations, it's not inexpensive. For $75, the cost of our non-movie dinner, we could have enjoyed a fine meal at a restaurant where we would have been both greeted and seated and wouldn't have to walk past a ticket-taker (hey, look, a wall of Movies of Arkansas) to use the bathroom.

Upon leaving, we saw a sign that interested me: On Saturdays and Sundays until 2 p.m., Movie Tavern serves brunch, with options ranging from Tall in the Saddle Pancakes ($7.95) to the Chicken and Waffle ($13.95). Yes, there are mimosas and bloody Marys ($5).

I might just want to join this version of The Breakfast Club.

photo

Steak and Shrimp at Movie Tavern comes with mashed potatoes and green beans.

Weekend on 03/15/2018

Movie Tavern

Address: 11300 Bass Pro Parkway, Little Rock

Hours: Check showtimes

Cuisine: Junior Mints to steak

Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Reservations: Advanced ticket sales available

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

(501) 319-6799

movietavern.com

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